A 3-day itinerary through the Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria

Spring is already knocking on the door, bringing with it the Easter holidays and the festive days in May. This time of year is perfect for planning and taking a short trip around our beautiful country. In this article, we invite you to explore an itinerary through the Rhodope Mountains.

The Rhodopes—vast, magical, and breathtaking. As the largest mountain range in Bulgaria, they cover nearly one-seventh of the country’s territory. Words fall short when it comes to describing the beauty of Orpheus’ mountain, as it is often called. Here, time seems to stand still, and life follows its own rhythm, different from that of many other places in Bulgaria. The people are warm and welcoming, the food is delicious, and the nature is wild and untouched by human hands.

Day One – The Arda River Bend and Zlatograd

The meanders of the Arda River are a must-see stop if you find yourself in the Eastern Rhodopes. The Arda is the largest river in the Rhodope Mountains and the second-largest tributary of the Maritsa River after the Tundzha. It springs from Ardenski Peak and flows into the Maritsa outside the borders of Bulgaria. The river has a distinctly mountainous character, yet a relatively gentle average gradient.

What leaves the strongest impression is its winding course, shaped by numerous bends that snake through massive rock formations along the river’s middle reaches. The most famous of these is undoubtedly “The Bend,” also known as “The Horseshoe.” This is no coincidence—before reaching the Kardzhali Dam, the Arda curves gracefully along its banks, creating a truly picturesque scene. This breathtaking spot has become a magnet for photographers and travelers alike. Here, the waters of the Arda glide past lush green ridges, extending a quiet invitation to everyone nearby to stop and admire their beauty.

You can find countless photos of “The Bend” online. However, I can guarantee one thing—seeing it in person is even more captivating. It is relatively easy to reach, although part of the road is narrow and not in the best condition.

If you are traveling from Kardzhali towards Ardino, reach the turnoff for the village of Kobiliane and then continue towards the village of Borovitsa. At the end of the village, the road splits—take the direction towards the village of Star Chitak (there is a sign for the village of Sukhovo). Shortly after passing Star Chitak, the most beautiful view of the Arda River will open up before you. A steep path located below the road leads to the improvised panoramic viewpoint.

After taking in the view, continue on to Zlatograd, our suggested place for an overnight stay. Zlatograd is the southernmost town in Bulgaria, located close to the Greek border. Each year, it attracts many visitors thanks to the cultural and natural landmarks that can be found here.

The town’s most famous attraction is undoubtedly the Zlatograd Ethnographic Complex, located in its very heart and functioning as an open-air museum. Opened on May 24, 2001, the complex features Revival-era houses that now serve as craft workshops, small shops, cafés, and house museums. Built of stone, adobe, and wood, the buildings preserve the authentic spirit of the past. Particularly interesting are the craft ateliers, including weaving, goldsmithing, knifemaking, pottery, and many others.

Do not miss the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum, which is part of the ethnographic complex. The house that hosts it is an architectural monument. In the past, it belonged to Alexander Chanov, a wealthy producer of traditional woolen cloth (aba) and a tobacco merchant. The museum preserves valuable artifacts related to the Rhodope region, as well as materials from other parts of the country.

The spirit of the Bulgarian National Revival can be felt throughout the entire town. Zlatograd is closely associated with the name of Delyo Voyvoda, renowned for his bravery and his struggle against the Islamization of Bulgarians in the Rhodopes. The famous folk song “Izlel e Delyo Haydutin,” performed by the beloved Valya Balkanska, is dedicated to him. This Bulgarian folk song became a musical message from Earth to the vast cosmos after being included on the Golden Record aboard NASA’s Voyager 1 and Voyager 2 spacecraft.

Numerous legends surround the life and death of the voivode. According to them, Delyo repeatedly managed to escape the Ottomans thanks to his cunning and agility. Locals say he was eventually killed in an ambush with a silver bullet specially cast for him. Another legend tells of his love for Gyulsyume, a Bulgarian Muslim woman whom the Ottomans tortured in an attempt to force her to betray him. She never spoke a word and remained faithful to her love, despite knowing they could never be together. She warned Delyo of the danger many times, but he did not heed her words. In the town center, you can see a monument depicting the voivode embracing his beloved.

The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is one of Zlatograd’s main landmarks. Built in 1834, it is considered one of the oldest churches in the Rhodope Mountains. The church is sunken nearly half a meter into the ground. In the churchyard, there is a monastic school where children once learned to write on sand poured into shallow wooden boxes. In an adjacent room is the candle workshop, where candles were traditionally made.

Day Two – “The Three Smolyan Lakes” Eco Trail, “Nevyastata” Eco Trail, and the Snezhanka Tower

The Smolyan Lakes are a wonderful place, nestled beneath the imposing Orpheus Rocks. They are scattered along the left slope of the Cherna River valley, stretching from the Orpheus Rocks and Mount Snezhanka all the way to the town of Smolyan. The lakes were formed in the rear depressions of a large landslide, created as a result of the contact between rhyolite rocks and the underlying impermeable sedimentary layers.

In the past, there were more than 20 lakes, but today only eight remain—seven natural and one, Keryanov Gyöl, which has been turned into a small reservoir. The others have gradually turned into marshes. In spring and autumn, small ponds reappear in some of these marshy areas, while others have been converted into fish farms.

The “Three Smolyan Lakes” Eco Trail circles three of the lakes: Trevistoto (Grassy Lake), Bistrotо (Clear Lake), and Mutnoto (Murky Lake). Reaching the start of the trail is easy—follow the paved road from the Ezerovo district of Smolyan toward the village of Stoykite. The road leads to the ski lift that operates between the Smolyan Lakes and Mount Snezhanka. Shortly before reaching it, you will see a sign marking the eco trail. This is also where the first lake on the route, Trevistoto, is located—the largest of the three.

Clear signposts mark the direction of the trail. The route is easy and very pleasant, offering fresh air and cool shade. Shortly after Trevistoto Lake comes Bistrotо Lake. The two lakes are connected by a narrow river arm that winds past clusters of rocks. At one end of the picturesque lake, you can see the reflections of centuries-old spruce trees, while at the other, large boulders are scattered like small islands across the water.

After Bistrotо Lake, a steep forest section begins, leading you up to Mutnoto Lake. In the steeper parts, handrails made of wooden branches and small bridges have been built to make the ascent easier and safer. After a short climb, following the trail markings, you reach the third lake—Mutnoto Lake. It bears this name because its waters are quite murky, in some places even dark. It is the deepest of the three, at 4.5 meters, and also the highest, situated at an altitude of 1,500 meters.

Along the eco trail, you will also come across several specially marked trees known as “Eurydice’s Throne” and “Orpheus’ Lyre.” Eurydice’s Throne is formed by several trees whose bases resemble a throne, while Orpheus’ Lyre is a tree that splits into three from the middle, resembling the shape of a lyre.

The view is impressive and will quite literally take your breath away for a few moments. The fresh mountain air fills your lungs, awakens the senses, and recharges your body with new energy for future places and adventures—of which there are countless in the Rhodope Mountains.

Anyone who has been to Smolyan has likely noticed the large reddish rock rising like a guardian over the town. This is The Bride (Nevyastata). Fortunately, it is easily accessible. A gentle and pleasant eco trail bearing the same name leads to it. To reach the start of the trail, head from Smolyan towards Pamporovo. Shortly after turning off the main Smolyan–Devin road, you will arrive at the Monastery of St. Great Martyr Panteleimon. In front of its archway, there is a free parking area where you can leave your car. From there, three paths begin—take the rightmost one to reach The Bride.