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Christmas Magic in Riquewihr and Mulhouse
Christmas is the favorite time of year for the people of Alsace. Tradition calls for all family members to join forces in decorating their homes and windows in festive Christmas colors. Christmas trees, stars, ribbons, candles, and glowing garlands—all the elements come together to create a joyful holiday atmosphere. The aroma of vin chaud (hot spiced wine), along with the scents of cinnamon and bredalas (traditional Christmas cookies), drifts through the streets of the medieval towns.
Alsace is one of the most beautiful and distinctive regions of France, renowned for its wine, gastronomy, and tourism opportunities. There are many charming places in Alsace, but Riquewihr is the jewel in its crown—a symbol of Riesling and other famous Alsatian wines. The town looks today exactly as it did in the 16th century. Small and romantic, it is nestled between the Vosges Mountains and some of the most renowned vineyards in Alsace. Riquewihr is located just a few kilometers from Colmar and only minutes away from other well-known Alsatian villages such as Eguisheim and Kaysersberg.
History
In Roman times, a watchtower stood on the site of present-day Riquewihr, and winemaking in the area was already well developed. The town took shape in the 6th century during the rule of the Franks. Its name is believed to be linked to that of a wealthy landowner known as Rico. The town’s original Latin name was likely Rico villa (“Rico’s estate”), which later evolved into Rikovillare. Riquewihr is first mentioned under this name in a document dating back to 1049.
At the height of the Middle Ages, the town was protected by Reichenstein Castle, owned first by the Dukes of Alsace and later by the Counts of Eguisheim-Dabo. The latter gained a notorious reputation as “robber counts.” In 1269, Rudolf of Habsburg—future King of Germany—put an end to this practice. Gathering troops in Strasbourg and Colmar, he destroyed the castle and executed the bandits. Impressed by the local wine, the future king granted Riquewihr town status. The town was later handed over to the Duk of Horbourg, who rebuilt the castle and constructed fortifications around it—many of which have been preserved to this day.
In 1324, Riquewihr was transferred by the Horbourg family to Ulrich X of Württemberg. The fate of the Alsatian town changed in 1397, when Count Eberhard IV of Württemberg became engaged to Henriette d’Orbe-Montfaucon, Countess of Montbéliard. Later, the couple—symbolizing the union of the two territories—chose Riquewihr as their capital. This marked the beginning of a golden era in the town’s development, which lasted until the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648), a conflict that fragmented Germany.
During the Thirty Years’ War, which pitted Catholics against Protestants, Riquewihr was besieged and plundered twice—in 1635 and in 1652—by the troops of the Catholic Duke of Lorraine. During the 1635 siege, the inhabitants of Riquewihr were promised mercy if they surrendered. On June 26, they opened the town gates, but the invading forces broke their word and carried out a massacre. The following decades were marked by epidemics of plague, typhus, and cholera, which dealt a severe blow to the local community.
In 1680, Riquewihr came under the authority of King Louis XIV, while officially remaining the property of the House of Württemberg. When the French Revolution broke out in 1789, the townspeople supported the French Republic. Under the treaty signed in Paris in 1796, the Württemberg family was sent into exile, and Riquewihr became part of France. As the town was not affected during either of the two World Wars, it has been preserved in excellent condition to this day.
Sights
The charm of Riquewihr lies in the fact that the town is exceptionally well preserved. Despite having a population of only about 1,300 people, Riquewihr ranks third in Alsace—after the much larger Colmar and Strasbourg—in terms of the number of houses classified as national heritage sites. Within the well-preserved town walls, small, uneven streets unfold, where car traffic is limited. Residents live in charming half-timbered houses painted in a variety of colors. Yes, you read that right—colorful homes, not just the typical off-white plaster, straw, and dark wooden beams. Houses and shops in Riquewihr appear in soft shades of baby blue, pale yellow, lavender, turquoise, and light green.
The medieval fortifications of the town were pierced by two gates, built at the end of the 13th century by the Duke of Horbourg. The lower gate was destroyed in 1804. Only the upper gate has survived to this day and is known as the Dolder. It is crowned by a five-story tower rising to a height of 25 meters. Its bell once served as an alarm, warning residents when enemies were spotted on the plain. In the Alsatian dialect, Dolder means “the highest point.”
In the Thieves’ Tower Museum—formerly Riquewihr’s prison—you can see chilling instruments once used to torture prisoners. The tower was built in 1550 and stands 18 meters tall. Also worth visiting is the Castle of the Dukes of Württemberg, which today houses the Alsatian Museum of Communication, tracing the history of postal services and other telecommunications in Alsace.
On either side of Riquewihr’s main street, there are many beautiful hidden lanes. Unfortunately, visitors who come to the town for just one day often miss this quieter side. Take some time to leave the main street and the well-trodden path to discover Riquewihr’s secluded streets. Look up, and you will notice an abundance of beautiful architectural details.
Christmas in Riquewihr
In true Alsatian style, Riquewihr beautifully combines the spirit of Christmas with the elegance of its architecture. We headed to Riquewihr in search of something more intimate, even though the town is one of the most touristic stops along the Alsace Wine Route (Route des Vins) and home to renowned wineries such as Hugel and Dopff Au Moulin.
During the festive season, magic is everywhere. Facades are adorned with elaborate decorations, windows that overflow with flowers in summer give way to charming holiday ornaments, and countless lights are strung across the narrow streets and alleys. The scene creates a Christmas enchantment that immerses you straight into a fairytale atmosphere.
During Christmas, the town is bathed in light and hosts a traditional Christmas market set in a magical atmosphere that blends the festive spirit with everything that makes Alsace so enchanting: streets adorned with sparkling decorations, illuminated facades and monuments, and market stalls brought to life. This joyful bustle evokes the world of childhood, filled with memories and emotions.
Older Alsatians often say that this remarkably well-preserved medieval town has become too commercial, catering to large crowds arriving on tourist buses. During previous summer visits, we accepted this as the price to pay for strolling through narrow lanes that gracefully frame terraced vineyards at the foot of the Vosges Mountains.
As recorded Christmas carols play over loudspeakers, we make our way through the crowd toward stalls displaying traditional holiday candles, ornaments, wooden puzzles, and woolen scarves. This enchanting Alsatian town hosts a Christmas market with around 100 stalls, selling everything from local beer and wine to festive decorations and ornaments. The market is a paradise for wine lovers, with many local winemakers offering their delicious wines, including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and even Alsatian Crémant (sparkling wine).
Christmas in Mulhouse
Not far from Riquewihr lies the town of Mulhouse. Mulhouse is an intriguing city. Known for its museums, it has been certified as a ville d’art et d’histoire by the French government. At the same time, it was a major player during the Industrial Revolution and continues to maintain impressive manufacturing levels today—so much so that it has earned the nickname “the French Manchester.”
The Christmas market in Mulhouse offers a unique atmosphere and many interesting finds as you browse the goods displayed in its charming wooden chalets. Located on Place de la Réunion, in front of Saint-Étienne Church, the market enchants visitors with its warm ambiance and festive decorations in Mulhouse’s signature Christmas colors. In the evening, the Town Hall, the surrounding buildings, and the church itself are illuminated with festive lights.
You can find more photos from the Christmas markets in Riquewihr and Mulhouse in our Gallery:
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